
Highly trained but eager to learn apprentice with expertise in plumbing, focused on keeping teams on-task and exceeding quality, performance and safety standards. Gets most out of every resource and team member using creativity and excellent problem-solving abilities while doing so in a timely manner.
•Travel to company warehouse at 6 A.M, and gather all materials according to material sheet.
• Go over the material sheet first at the warehouse and confirm that you have all the correct materials/sizes for the designated job for the job, pack it up in your work van and drive to the job site.
Call customer before arrival to alert them of your arrival, and arrive in a timely manner.
Arrive, greet the customer, and inspect the bathroom to make sure there aren’t any obstacles before starting the demolition. Make sure measurements for your shower pan/bathtub are all correct and will in fact fit in the shower space.
After Inspection, go over the chosen materials with customer and make sure the acrylic walls, shower pan/ bathtub color, trim, shower doors are what they ordered. Once everything is confirmed, then the job can start.
•Apply floor cloths from the front entrance of the home, all the way to the designated bathroom you’re working in. Make sure you use plastic wrap to cover dressers, beds, counters, or anything that’s nearby the bathroom to protect from dust debris. Remove paintings/pictures from walls to prevent them from falling during demolition. Once everything is sheathed, you can start demolition.
• With a respirator for safety, demo the tile, acrylic, fiberglass, marble shower enclosure and remove the cast iron, acrylic, fiberglass shower pan/Tub. Every Demo is different, you must know the demolition techniques for every type.
•Once the enclosure is demolished to bare studs, clean up and start working on plumbing.
•Start working with supply lines first, replace it with PEX. It all depends on what material the supply lines are, with copper you cut the pipe a couple feet above the bottom plate, ream and sand the copper, then solder on 1/2 PEX adaption fittings to both hot and cold water lines. With galvanized pipe, you disconnect the connection fittings by using WD-40 or torch, then install a brass male PEX adaption fitting. Run your PEX to the valve then to shower head, making sure everything is aligned with the drain.
•Everything must be up to code, make sure hot water lines are insulated, all exterior walls are insulated, all PEX is clamped down snug to prevent water hammer, no PEX under 2 inches, ETC.
•After you finish plumbing the supply lines work with drain. Plumbing a shower pan and bathtub are entirely different, same concepts but different. Cut out the old p trap, and install a new ABS pipe trap using a no hub connection fitting. You must use the right one based on the type of drainage pipe that was previously there, if it was cast iron you must use a CAST IRON to PL coupling. Make sure everything is up to code, in apartment buildings or any building 3 stories or more, they only use copper drainage systems, so if you try to re-pipe it with ABS you will fail inspection!
•At this point, If your job is inspected, wait for the inspector to arrive and pass you. If they have any doubts about your professionalism, they’ll give you a hard time!
• After you pass inspection, set your shower pan/bathtub using ECOFLEX adhesive, apply globs every 3 inches to shower pan/bathtub and set.
•After Shower pan/tub is set, then install DensShield drywall over the entire enclosure using water resistant coated screws, usually yellow or green in color. Every 6 inches. Smear adhesive over all screw holes and corners to prevent water intrusion. Make sure the drywall is over the lip of the shower pan/tub. Install corner trim on all corners as an extra defense against water intrusion. This needs to be inspected as well, but if you do it right you can get both the plumbing and wet walls signed off on the first trip.
•After the plumbing and drywall is passed by inspector, you can start templating the walls with template strips. Start with the back wall first, then the remaining walls second.
•Place template on acrylic sheet, trace around and scorch the trace with a knife. The acrylic should break off easily. In a lot of circumstances, you must use a heated rod/bender to bend the walls to create a “bullnose” or create certain shapes, do this same process with all 3 walls. Once completed, apply globs of ECOFLEX adhesive every 3 inches across the acrylic panels and put them up.
•After acrylic walls are set, you can install the window trim if there is any, corner shelf’s, grab bars, seats, valve trim, shower head, and the shower door. Once these are all installed, you silicone the entire enclosure. You must use the same color silicone as the walls when beading the corners, and use the same color silicone as the pan when siliconing where the pan meets acrylic walls.
-Certification with the National Center for Construction, Education and Research. Commonly known as an “NCCER” card.
-Certification in First Aid and CPR.
- OSHA 10
-Valid driver’s license
-Have most hand and power tools
-Reliable transportation
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